Baan Dam
The Black House
Situated 20 mins north of the city, Baan Dam is a complex of houses, structures, art, sculptures and a museum by the other famous, and somewhat controversial, Chiang Rai artist Thawan Duchanee (1939-2014). An internationally acclaimed artist, the Black House was also his place of residency, work started in 1976 on this piece of art in his home city of Chiang Rai. This is not a temple site, although often referred to as one, in part due to the main entrance building which is similar in design to a temple, but is in fact a house with a traditional styled 3 tier roof.
The dark teak timbers house a large hall adorned with animal skins, skulls and horns. An imposing long table covered with a snake skin along it’s length is unusual to say the least. This sets the scene for the rest of the site. It was Thawan’s interpretation of the Lord Buddha seeing death, sickness and suffering along his journeys. The Buddhist views on greed and desire are also incorporated within the theme. Baan Dam is certainly thought provoking and individual interpretations of the works will vary immensely. Visitors be aware of some disturbing displays for younger children.
The grounds incorporate some 40 structures reflecting northern Thai tradition and culture to modern peculiarities set in well-kept grounds. There is a haunting feeling to Baan Dam. Some consider this the opposite of The White Temple, Baan Dam relates more to hell due to the dark colour and character within. There are influences of traditional Burmese and Balinese architecture to be seen. The amount of animal remains, might not be conducive to any animal lovers. There are many Buddhist images, sculptures and figures. Buddhism is an integral part of the majority of the Thai people’s daily life. You will see Thais paying their respect for these representations, be respectful to this.Not all of the exhibits are open to the public. The Shark House for example, was Thawan’s residence. Many university students come here to draw and are happy to let you see their sketches.
There is a café within the grounds for refreshments and meals. Outside there is the usual collection of snacks, street food for your sustenance.
Photography is allowed throughout Baan Dam. Low light photography is needed, flash photography is considered impolite as a rule. Wide angle shots to capture the buildings, with portrait shots for the various detailed displays.
For more photos, click here for the Baan Dam Gallery.
Baan Dam is open daily from 09.00-17.00 although closed from 13.00-14.00 for lunch. Entrance fee is THB 80/$2.60 regardless of nationality. Expect to spend half a day to fully explore this attraction. Getting there by taxi or tuk tuk is the best option. Hotels and tour companies will offer you excursions but will include other sites. I recommend making your own way there and not be limited to timings.
*March 2019 Gallery remains closed due to family issues over the artwork.
** Photos affected by the burning season smoke.
Visit Baan Dam official website for more detailed information: